Tharpu Chuli peak climbing is an ideal opportunity for those who want to climb a high mountain peak but are still reluctant to attempt a higher peak as a Himalayan entry. Tharpu Chuli peak climbing is an interesting combination of ascent with glacier trekking, snow wall climbing, and a razor-sharp ridge at the summit. A climb up this mountain offers an unrivaled view of the entire Annapurna Sanctuary with the stunning circle of hanging glaciers and moraines surrounded by some of the highest peaks on earth.
It was nicknamed “tent peak” by Jimmy Roberts in 1956. Tharpu Chuli peak lies in the heart of the Annapurna Sanctuary and is among the few snow-capped peaks in this altitude range in Nepal. With an altitude of 5695 m, Tharpu Chuli Peak is a trekking peak suitable for beginner climbers. This is a relatively simple, low climbing peak. The approach is carried out along the trekking path to the Annapurna Sanctuary and takes no more than 5 days. The ascent is not difficult with good weather, ice, and snow conditions.
From the peak, magnificent views of the entire Annapurna amphitheater and Machhapuchhre open up. The peak is clearly visible from the “original” Annapurna base camp used by the expeditions of Maurice Herzog in 1950 and Chris Bonnington in 1970. For the first time, this mountain, without climbing to the top, was explored by Colonel Jimmy Roberts, in 1956, during the reconnaissance of the area, before the British expedition to Machhapuchhre. The first ascent was made in 1957 by a Japanese expedition to Annapurna South, led by Dr. Haruo Higuchi. They climbed the southeast ridge. An easier route follows the northwest ridge. For the first time, this route was climbed by the German expedition Gunter Hauser in 1965.
The trek to Tharpu CHuli is a must which allows you to walk along the path of the famous track – to the Annapurna Base Camp, see the majestic panoramas of Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Him Chuli, Fish Tale, and Gangapurna. Moreover, you don’t need any trekking permit for this region except for the National park Entrance Fee of around $10, which you can pay either in Kathmandu or at the Annapurna Conservation Area Permit office on the outskirts of Pokhara.
Like any high mountain in Nepal, the best season to climb this summit is in the Spring season ( March to May) and Autumn ( October to December). The hike during these seasons can offer you clear visible skies, cool daytime and nighttime temperatures, accompaniment of other climbers, and lush views of green rhododendron forests. The summer season (June to August) is often followed by heavy rainfall, and days will often be crowded with cloudy days. The Winter season ( January and February), characterized by snowy and bone-chilling temperatures both day and night, can undoubtedly make your trip less suitable.
The trek altogether has three main stages: Base Camp, High Camp, and the Climb, which is done in two parts. From Annapurna Base Camp, you will follow the trail east along the moraine towards a large cairn / chorten, which marks the descent route onto Annapurna South Glacier on the right. You will then descend a fairly steep path onto the glacial moraine. You will cross the glacier; there are several cairns, sometimes flags, that lead you to the boulder moraine on the other side. You will climb the cliffs and then walk down a dry ditch on the left to the grassy area and choose your base camp location (4115 m).
To get to the high camp from here, you have to follow the crest of the moraine northwest until you reach a deep gorge with a stream. After turning sharp right and following a path towards Tharpu Chuli, the trail levels off. You will cross the creek and traverse to a clear flat at 4420m as the first high camp option. If you want to camp further up, there is another option at 4880m by following a ridge above this point until you reach the next level.
You will follow the slopes towards Rakshi Peak from your high camp on the left. At 5330m, you will cross the glacier heading straight towards the fantastic-looking wall of Singu Chuli / Fluted Peak separating Tharpu Chuli and Singu Chuli. According to most climbing guides, the right end of the wall is the easiest way to climb. The slope of the wall here is between 45 and 55 degrees.
Upon reaching the northwest ridge, you have to turn right and then begin your ascent on a broad ridge that narrows to a narrow, razor-sharp ridge with a 50-degree incline on the final 50m climb to the summit.
Tharpu Chuli peak is a relatively simple and convenient peak for climbing, suitable for beginner climbers and those who want to experience the adventure and rush of climbing but hesitate to hike high altitude mountains. The trek can be done within two weeks. With good weather, ice, and snow conditions, the ascent is not difficult, at a relatively low altitude of 5000 m. this five thousand peak provides an interesting combination of glacier ascent driving, climbing and tiptoeing on knife ridges, unparalleled views of the entire Annapurna Sanctuary, a stunning circle of hanging icecaps and moraines surrounded by some of the highest peaks. To make your trip even simpler and easier, you can trek via the northwest ridge; although the mountain has been climbed via the southeast ridge and the southwest face, they are relatively harder.