LHOTSE EXPEDITION

LHOTSE EXPEDITION

LHOTSE EXPEDITION

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The Lhotse Expedition climbs the same route as Everest, passing via the aptly called Lhotse face almost all the way to Everest’s Geneva Spur, where it continues on a difficult ascent through a long couloir to the summit.

Lhotse has three peaks, the lowest of which is 8,383 meters high (Lhotse Shar). Lhotse East, also known as the Middle, is the next highest mountain in the world, reaching 8,413 meters. Lhotse Main, at 8,516 meters, is the tallest summit.

The Lhotse Couloir is the most direct route to the top. It’s on the mountain’s west face, also known as the Lhotse Face. The Yellow Band and the previously mentioned Geneva Spur are two rocky locations.

The couloir is the most difficult part of the Lhotse climb, owing to the fact that the couloir’s climbing conditions are influenced by weather and seasonal snowfall. The trail passes through the Khumbu Icefall.

The expedition is expected to last between 50 and 60 days. Kathmandu is both the beginning and the finish of the journey. Along the route, you’ll stop by the Namche Bazaar, which is alive with local custom, as well as the Tengboche Monastery, which is the region’s important Buddhist center. The actual climb will begin from there, with high camps along the way. 

Lhotse Expedition Route

You’ll meet in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital, for a team briefing, gear checks, and last-minute purchases before flying into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley by fixed-wing. You’ll trek through the Sherpa homelands via the Khumbu Valley, staying in contemporary lodges with superb meals and being wowed by the breathtaking beauty of the lower Khumbu’s tremendous peaks.

On the journey, you’ll pass via the Kongma La, a high pass (5,535m/18,159ft) with spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Makalu, and the region’s hundreds of other peaks. This will give you an advantage in terms of acclimatization when you arrive at Base Camp the next evening.

Your Base Camp will be luxuriously outfitted, with your own walk-in sleeping tents with comfortable beds, high-quality cuisine, and a heated dining tent with chairs and couches. A route with ropes and ladders through to Camp 1 (5,900m/19.500ft) will already be created by the time you reach the Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. A capable Sherpa team will be hard at work transporting loads of material up the mountain.

After a few nights at Camp 1, you’ll continue to Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft) for several nights of acclimatization, with a foray to the Lhotse Face thrown in for good measure. After a respite at Base Camp, you’ll travel on to Camps 1 and 2 and spend one night at Camp 3 to finish the acclimatization program.

You’ll now descend to Base Camp to wait for a weather window to attempt the summit. When you’ve done that, you’ll go up past the campgrounds and set up camp at the ‘Turtle,’ which is near to the famed Geneva Spur and only a few hundred meters from the summit couloir. The climb takes approximately 6 to 8 hours.

If the weather permits, you will descend to Camp 2 immediately after summiting, then return to Base Camp the next morning. You’ll now descend the same route you used to get to the camp and finish your Lhotse excursion.

Why Climb Lhotse ?

  • Lhotse is a spectacular mountain in its own right, with a massive south face that rises 3.2 kilometers in only 2.25 kilometers of horizontal distance, making it the world’s steepest face of this size.
  • It is the perfect challenge to test your skills as a technical and advanced mountaineer
  • Local cultures that dwell on the route will stay with you as good memories
  • If you aspire to climb Mount Everest, Lhotse can be the best preparation for it as there are similar conditions in Lhotse and Everest. 
  • Since the South Col connects the two peaks, climbing Lhotse can be done as a side trip during an Everest expedition.

Best Season For Lhotse Expedition

Spring (April-May)

In Nepal, the best time to go on an expedition is in the spring. With the gorgeous view of the enormous mountain scenery, the climate will be most vivid at this time. The wind will not be as strong, and the trail will be easier to navigate than in other seasons when it is mostly covered in snow. In Nepal, this season sees the highest number of expeditions. Because the region will be more crowded, the most cost-effective mode of transportation will be the most important.

Autumn (August-October) 

Autumn is another great season for summiting the peaks. Nature is rich with hills and a vibrant sky. There will be less heat haze, allowing for the finest breathtaking vistas of the world’s enormous peak ranges. This is the second busiest time of the year. In comparison to the spring season, there will be fewer visitors.

Lhotse Expedition Difficulty

To be precise, the expedition is very difficult and challenging. 

There is no such thing as an ‘easy’ 8,000m summit. You’ll be working in a harsh environment that you must respect and be cautious of. You must, however, know when to push your limitations and when not to in order to be successful.

As a potential member of our trip, you must be strong and prepared for the rigors of altitude; in other words, you must be ready for a lot of hard work and physical exertion. However, you must know not to push yourself too hard and instead operate at a level just below your aerobic threshold – the highest level at which you can trek consistently – to save your energy for the summit attempt.

Thus, the Lhotse expedition requires your physical capacity to climb and mental preparations to remain stable throughout the journey. Furthermore, you will have to stick to your strategies and journey outline to successfully complete the expedition. 

How much does the Lhotse Expedition cost ?

Your cost will include everything after you arrive in Kathmandu from the moment you will depart back to your home. However, there are certain exceptions like your personal expenses or luxurious alternatives you might opt for. The total cost will be USD 20,000 at max. 

Your tickets, cargo clearance, and permits will be covered by the cost package. On a side note. the permits that you will need for Lhotse Expedition are: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Lhotse, Sagarmatha National Park permits, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry Permit. 

Similarly, other mandatory fees like Khumbu Ice Fall Climbing charge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, and Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees will also be covered. 

The cost will also include the fees for one Government Liaison officer with full equipment ($2,500), salary, and accommodation. Moreover medical and Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved staff during the expedition will also be handled at the same cost. 

Transportation with the expedition route, food costs throughout the expedition, cost for porters, guides, trekking and climbing map, base camp tent, and equipment including heater, generators, and others will also be taken care of. 

For Lhotse summit, three oxygen bottles of four liters for you and two oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa, one set oxygen Mask and regulator for you and your Sherpa guide, one Gamow bag or rescue sled, high camp services like high altitude tent, EPI has for cooking, cooking pot, food for you and your Sherpa guide member, group climbing gears and, a fixed and dynamic rope will come under the package itself.

Satellite phone for emergency communication (carried by your Sherpa guide), and walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp will also be provided, and its costs will come under the cost package itself. Likewise, permits for satellite Phone/walkie-talkie will be covered by the package too. 

After the successful completion of your summit, you will be presented with a Lhotse climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA. The charges for this certificate will also come under the package.


Trip Details

Departure/Return Location Kathmandu
included
Guide Meal
Transport
not included
Shop Items
Hiking Gears

  Outline Itinerary

  • DAY 01: Arrival in Kathmandu (1300 m) and transfer to the hotel.
  • DAY 02-03: Preparing expedition in Kathmandu
  • DAY 04: Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding (2610m)
  • DAY 05: Trek to Namche Bazaar stay lodge (3440 m)
  • DAY 06: Acclimatization day in Namche Bazar
  • DAY 07: Trek Namche - Deboche (3820m)
  • DAY 08: Trek Deboche(3820m) to Dingboche (4410m)
  • DAY 09: Acclimatization day (4900m)
  • DAY 10: Trek to Chukung (4730m)
  • DAY 11: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5200m)
  • DAY 12: Climbing Training
  • DAY 13: Summit Island Peak (6,119m) and back to Chukung
  • DAY 14: Trek to Lobuche (4910m)
  • DAY 15: Trek from Lobuche to Gorekshep (5170 m)
  • DAY 16: Trek to Lhotse Base Camp / Everest Base camp (5,364m)
  • DAY 17-20: Lhotse Base Camp
  • DAY 21-22: Trek to Camp I (5,900m)
  • DAY 23: Stay at Base Camp.
  • DAY 24-25: Trek to Camp I (5,900m)
  • DAY 26-27: Trek to Camp II (6,400m)
  • DAY 28-29: Trek to Base Camp III (7100m)
  • DAY 30: Back to Camp II
  • DAY 31-36: Camp II (6400 m)
  • DAY 37-38: From Camp II to Camp III (7100 m)
  • DAY 39: Camp IV (7900 m, 8 hrs)
  • DAY 40: Camp IV to Summit. (8,516 m, 10 Hours)
  • DAY 41: Camp II to Base camp
  • DAY 42-43: Rest at Base Camp
  • DAY 44: Trek base camp to Pheriche
  • DAY 45: Trek Pheriche to Namche bazaar
  • DAY 46: Trek Namche bazaar to Lukla
  • DAY 47: Fly to Kathmandu airport
  • DAY 48-49: Free days Kathmandu
  • DAY 50: Transfer to airport from Hotel for departure

Itinerary

Detailed Itinerary

    • Upon arriving at the Tribhuvan Airport of Kathmandu, a team designated for you will escort you to your hotel. You can do as you please.

    • You will complete your journey’s last preparations and arrangements. You will meet your team, guides, and Sherpa and complete the government formalities like Expedition Permit, National Park permits, and related documentation. A detailed briefing will be done too. 

    • Your Lhotse Expedition will begin with a 35-minute domestic flight to Lukla. After that, you’ll hike for 3-4 hours to Phakding (8km). There are several cultural communities along the path, and you can see Mount Khumbila and Mount Kusum Kangraru. You’ll spend the night in Phakding.

    • Along the Dudh Koshi River, you will climb up to Namche Bazaar. Along the way, you’ll pass through pine forests and cross multiple suspension bridges. In Monjo, you’ll also be able to observe the Sagarmatha National Park’s entrance. Then you’ll acquire your permits and climb to Namche Bazaar, where you’ll spend the night. This walk will be 10 kilometers long and take up to 5 hours to complete.

    • Acclimatization day is a day to relax and allow your body to adjust to their new environment. Namche Bazar is the important trading hub for the Himalayan region. As a result, you will have much to accomplish. There will also be a brief hike to visit the surrounding communities.

    • You’ll travel to Deboche. This 11-kilometer trial will take 5 to 6 hours and will go along the Dudh Koshi River’s glacier. When you get to Sanasa, you’ll come to a fork in the road that leads to either Gokyo Valley or Everest Base Camp. Choosing the route to EBC, you will ascend Tengboche Monastery and then go to Deboche, where you will spend the night in a lodge.

    • You will start your 11 km trek from Deboche which takes up to 6 hours. Descending to Imja River, trekking uphill to the village of Pangboche, and walking past the steep Pheriche to the Lobuche River, you will reach Dingboche. You will rest the night in Dingboche.

    • You will rest and let your body adapt to the weather and surroundings. You might also opt to go on a hike to Chukung village and even climb Chukung Ri. If not, you can simply rest on the laps of Mt Cho Oyu, Mt Pumori, and the Lhotse wall

    • You will trek from Dingboche to Chukung which is located close to Island Peak. You will stay in a lodge for the night.

    • Your expedition now starts getting rougher as the trail to the Island Peak Camp has boulders and glaciated rivers. You will progress across the Lhotse Glacier and arrive at the Base Camp to rest for the night.

    • You will be given training for pre-climbing where you will be taught mountain climbing techniques, using climbing tools and gears like an ascender, or a harness properly. You will also receive training on how to use ropes during our climb and what safety measures to take. You will rest the night in the Island peak base camp.

    • You’ll ascend to the summit of Island Peak. The trail is mild at first, but as you get closer to the summit, it becomes steep. You will be able to enjoy an incredible perspective of the graceful white snow-capped mountains such as Mt Nuptse, Mt Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and Mt Baruntse after you reach the peak. You will return to Chukung after reaching the top.

    • You’ll continue your adventure by continuing east and following the Khumbu Icefall over Kongma La, which is the most treacherous part of this climb. You will now follow the riverbank walk to your destination and spend the night in Lobuche.

    • You’ll pass via Khumbu Glacier, which is home to several climber memorials. You’ll reach the Changri Nup glacier and then Gorekshep after crossing the Khumbu Glacier. This 11-kilometer trek will take roughly 5-6 hours to complete.

    • It will take you about 3/4 hours to complete your route. As you gain altitude, the path becomes increasingly difficult and difficult. After that, you’ll trek through the rocky dunes to The Base Camp, where you’ll meet up with the rest of the group.

    • You will start by acclimatizing at Lhotse Base Camp. You will be staying at the Lhotse Base camp for 3 to 5 days. These days, your training will also be carried out. You can also have practice sessions.

    • The ascent from Base Camp to Camp I is around 750 meters long, with a few steep slopes covered in snow, ice, and rocky walls. You will trek up to Camp I, crossing the famed Khumbu Glacier via a ladder. It can be difficult to get to Camp I. At Camp I, you will spend the night.

    • You will stay at the base camp. You can rest, train, and prepare for the trek to Camp I once again.

    • You will start your trek early in the morning and head for Camp I. This time the path will be more familiar and it will be easier. After about 7 hours you will reach Camp I once again. You will stay there for 2 days.

    • You’ll ascend to Camp II, which lies near the bottom of the West Ridge. After climbing roughly 1300m in 9-10 hours, you cross through the gorge and arrive at Lhotse Camp II. You will be treated to a breathtaking view of Lhotse and Everest. You will spend two days here to prepare for the ascent ahead.

    • Because the steeps range from 30 to 45 degrees, you’ll need to use ropes to get to Camp III. You will spend the night and the next day there.

    • You will climb down back to Camp II and rest there for the night.

    • You will stay and rest at camp II.

    • You will again climb up to Camp III, and spend the next day there too for rest.

    • You’ll climb to Camp IV, which is 7900 meters. The face climbs at a 40-45 degree angle and takes roughly 8 hours to complete. This is the final camp on your journey, bringing you closer to your final destination. There, you’ll recuperate and prepare for the final ascent.

    • This is going to be your last ascent. It will be a 12-hour climb that will be really demanding. Your climbing Sherpa and guides will accompany you and help you through safe routes. You’ll come across steps that are 40-45 degrees and even an 80-degree bulge as you travel to the summit. The panoramic view of Mount Everest (8848 m), Ama Dablam (6856 m), Nuptse (7879 m), the South Col, Khumbu glacier, and the snow-covered landscape for as far as the eye can see awaits you at the summit.

      You’ll start descending back to Camp II as soon as feasible after resting for a spell. You will spend the night in Camp II and rest there.

    • You will climb back down to Base camp early morning and stay there for the night.

    • You will rest at the camp and prepare for descent.

    • From Lhotse Base Camp, you’ll start descending to Pheriche. The walk to Pheriche will span 14 kilometers and take 7 hours. You’ll spend the night at Pheriche.

    • You’ll return to Namche Bazar on foot. The trail will last 7 hours and cover up to 15 kilometers. You’ll spend the night there.

    • From Namche Bazaar to Lukla, you’ll walk down Namche Bazaar, then down the same steps. To go to Lukla, you’ll have to pass through the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint. It’s an 18-kilometer excursion that takes 7 to 8 hours. You’ll relax at a nearby lodge and prepare for your flight the next day.

    • There will be an early flight to Kathmandu which will take about 35 mins. You will stay at the hotel and rest.

    • These days can be used to tour Kathmandu and adjacent cities such as Patan and Bhaktapur. Visit museums and cultural institutions while on a tour of Durbar Square. There are numerous pubs, restaurants, cafes, and spas to choose from. You may also learn about Kathmandu’s culture by visiting temples and heritage sites.

Inclusion & exclusion

The cost includes
    • All airport/hotel transfers
    • 4 nights in Normal Nice Hotel in Kathmandu on twin sharing basis with breakfast
    • A full day sightseeing tour in Kathmandu valley including tour guide, transportations and entrance fees
    • All land transportation cost as mentioned in itinerary
    • Food and Accommodation during trekking / expedition (full board service – breakfast, Lunch and dinner + hot water)
    • All group equipments such as tents, rope, kitchen utensils etc.
    • Sherpa, porters, liaison officer, kitchen staff and 1 personal climbing guide
    • Equipment allowance and daily wages for all Nepali staffs
    • All necessary paper works (ACAP and Himlung Himal Royalty)
    • Bottle oxygen with mask and regulator for emergency use (USD 500 if used)
    • Satellite phone for communication (USD 3 per minute is subject to charge if used)
    • Solar panels for charging photo equipment and computer at Base Camp
    • Garbage Deposit Fee
    • First Aid medical kit
    • Peak Promotion Trekking duffel bag, cap and trekking/climbing map
    • Insurance for Nepali staffs
    • Travel and rescue arrangements
    • Special Farewell Dinner
The cost doesn't include
    • International air ticket
    • Nepal Visa Fee
    • Personal climbing gears
    • Meals in Kathmandu except breakfast and farewell dinner
    • Summit Bonus (USD 500)
    • Alcohol and Beverages during the trek and climbing season
    • Personal expenses (telephone call, laundry, bar bills etc.)
    • Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, changes in Government regulations etc.
    • Emergency Medical/helicopter Evacuation
    • Tips for guides and porters
    • Any other item not included in “COST INCLUDES” section

FAQ's

    • Lhotse is a fantastic climb that ranks alongside Everest. It’s less busy and requires a little more technical climbing, especially in years with less snow. Despite being 1,095 feet lower than Everest, it necessitates the same level of preparation, skills, equipment, and assistance. However, it is not harder to climb than Everest. 

    • It will cost you anywhere from USD 15,000 to 20,000. The cost depends on the package you choose and the personal expenses that come along with it.

    • Yes, extraordinary climbers have climbed the south face of Lhotse. After numerous tries, a Czech-Slovakian team successfully climbed Lhotse Shar’s south face for the first time in 1984. Climbers like Reinhold Messner and Jerzy Kukuczka also succeeded in climbing Lhotse’s south face, but they were unable to descend safely and died as a result.

       

      Therefore, climbing the South Face is nearly impossible, as climbers must battle snow, rough slopes, avalanches, and winds while attempting to scale the 3.300m (11,000ft) massive wall.

    • It is possible to climb Lhotse and Everest in one day however, there have only been two people as per the records, who have done so. These two people are an American guide Michael Horst and Nepali mountaineer Nirmal Purja, also known as Nims Dai.

    • It takes anywhere from 50 to 60 days. The days differ according to your guides’ strategies and your willingness to take a rest.