The Lhotse Expedition climbs the same route as Everest, passing via the aptly called Lhotse face almost all the way to Everest’s Geneva Spur, where it continues on a difficult ascent through a long couloir to the summit.
Lhotse has three peaks, the lowest of which is 8,383 meters high (Lhotse Shar). Lhotse East, also known as the Middle, is the next highest mountain in the world, reaching 8,413 meters. Lhotse Main, at 8,516 meters, is the tallest summit.
The Lhotse Couloir is the most direct route to the top. It’s on the mountain’s west face, also known as the Lhotse Face. The Yellow Band and the previously mentioned Geneva Spur are two rocky locations.
The couloir is the most difficult part of the Lhotse climb, owing to the fact that the couloir’s climbing conditions are influenced by weather and seasonal snowfall. The trail passes through the Khumbu Icefall.
The expedition is expected to last between 50 and 60 days. Kathmandu is both the beginning and the finish of the journey. Along the route, you’ll stop by the Namche Bazaar, which is alive with local custom, as well as the Tengboche Monastery, which is the region’s important Buddhist center. The actual climb will begin from there, with high camps along the way.
You’ll meet in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital, for a team briefing, gear checks, and last-minute purchases before flying into Lukla Airport in the Khumbu Valley by fixed-wing. You’ll trek through the Sherpa homelands via the Khumbu Valley, staying in contemporary lodges with superb meals and being wowed by the breathtaking beauty of the lower Khumbu’s tremendous peaks.
On the journey, you’ll pass via the Kongma La, a high pass (5,535m/18,159ft) with spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Makalu, and the region’s hundreds of other peaks. This will give you an advantage in terms of acclimatization when you arrive at Base Camp the next evening.
Your Base Camp will be luxuriously outfitted, with your own walk-in sleeping tents with comfortable beds, high-quality cuisine, and a heated dining tent with chairs and couches. A route with ropes and ladders through to Camp 1 (5,900m/19.500ft) will already be created by the time you reach the Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu Icefall. A capable Sherpa team will be hard at work transporting loads of material up the mountain.
After a few nights at Camp 1, you’ll continue to Camp 2 (6,400m/21,000ft) for several nights of acclimatization, with a foray to the Lhotse Face thrown in for good measure. After a respite at Base Camp, you’ll travel on to Camps 1 and 2 and spend one night at Camp 3 to finish the acclimatization program.
You’ll now descend to Base Camp to wait for a weather window to attempt the summit. When you’ve done that, you’ll go up past the campgrounds and set up camp at the ‘Turtle,’ which is near to the famed Geneva Spur and only a few hundred meters from the summit couloir. The climb takes approximately 6 to 8 hours.
If the weather permits, you will descend to Camp 2 immediately after summiting, then return to Base Camp the next morning. You’ll now descend the same route you used to get to the camp and finish your Lhotse excursion.
In Nepal, the best time to go on an expedition is in the spring. With the gorgeous view of the enormous mountain scenery, the climate will be most vivid at this time. The wind will not be as strong, and the trail will be easier to navigate than in other seasons when it is mostly covered in snow. In Nepal, this season sees the highest number of expeditions. Because the region will be more crowded, the most cost-effective mode of transportation will be the most important.
Autumn is another great season for summiting the peaks. Nature is rich with hills and a vibrant sky. There will be less heat haze, allowing for the finest breathtaking vistas of the world’s enormous peak ranges. This is the second busiest time of the year. In comparison to the spring season, there will be fewer visitors.
To be precise, the expedition is very difficult and challenging.
There is no such thing as an ‘easy’ 8,000m summit. You’ll be working in a harsh environment that you must respect and be cautious of. You must, however, know when to push your limitations and when not to in order to be successful.
As a potential member of our trip, you must be strong and prepared for the rigors of altitude; in other words, you must be ready for a lot of hard work and physical exertion. However, you must know not to push yourself too hard and instead operate at a level just below your aerobic threshold – the highest level at which you can trek consistently – to save your energy for the summit attempt.
Thus, the Lhotse expedition requires your physical capacity to climb and mental preparations to remain stable throughout the journey. Furthermore, you will have to stick to your strategies and journey outline to successfully complete the expedition.
Your cost will include everything after you arrive in Kathmandu from the moment you will depart back to your home. However, there are certain exceptions like your personal expenses or luxurious alternatives you might opt for. The total cost will be USD 20,000 at max.
Your tickets, cargo clearance, and permits will be covered by the cost package. On a side note. the permits that you will need for Lhotse Expedition are: Expedition Royalty and permit of Nepal Government to climb Lhotse, Sagarmatha National Park permits, TIMS CARD & Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality entry Permit.
Similarly, other mandatory fees like Khumbu Ice Fall Climbing charge to (SPCC) Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee, and Garbage Management: Stool Shipment Transfer & Garbage Deposit fees will also be covered.
The cost will also include the fees for one Government Liaison officer with full equipment ($2,500), salary, and accommodation. Moreover medical and Emergency rescue Insurance for all involved staff during the expedition will also be handled at the same cost.
Transportation with the expedition route, food costs throughout the expedition, cost for porters, guides, trekking and climbing map, base camp tent, and equipment including heater, generators, and others will also be taken care of.
For Lhotse summit, three oxygen bottles of four liters for you and two oxygen bottles for each high-altitude Sherpa, one set oxygen Mask and regulator for you and your Sherpa guide, one Gamow bag or rescue sled, high camp services like high altitude tent, EPI has for cooking, cooking pot, food for you and your Sherpa guide member, group climbing gears and, a fixed and dynamic rope will come under the package itself.
Satellite phone for emergency communication (carried by your Sherpa guide), and walkie-Talkie for communicating from Base Camp to Mountain and Mountain to Base Camp will also be provided, and its costs will come under the cost package itself. Likewise, permits for satellite Phone/walkie-talkie will be covered by the package too.
After the successful completion of your summit, you will be presented with a Lhotse climbing certificate issued by MoCTCA. The charges for this certificate will also come under the package.