BARUNTSE EXPEDITION

Baruntse expedition is an adventurous undertaking in itself, allowing you to get to know Nepal from one of its most remote corners.

Among the hundreds of peaks in the world, Baruntse is one of the most beautiful and symmetrical snow peaks at 7162 m. and lies in the middle of three glacial valleys, the Imja, the Hunku, and the Barun valley. The peak itself occupies a central position among some of the highest peaks in the Himalayas, lying between Everest and Makalu. The reward on summit day includes spectacular views of Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu.

The first ascent was on May 30, 1954, via the southeast flank by a New Zealand expedition led by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow. 

The Baruntse is considered to be a relatively easy and safe seven-thousander to climb and is therefore often the target of commercial expeditions like Pumori, Ama Dablam, and Everest. The route runs almost exclusively over snow and ice. It is technically not particularly difficult, with the exception of the steep ascent to West Col and the sometimes heavily overgrown ridge in the summit area.

This mountain is one of the best preparation peaks for those climbers who want to climb Mt Everest and other 8000m peaks. Baruntse Peak offers maximum chances of successfully reaching the summit. 

The most successful ascents are made in the spring from March to May when the snow conditions are good and the mountain is objectively safe. The expedition can also occur in the autumn season from late September to early December, but the temperature will start decreasing with a cool wind on the venue. 

The exploration begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; the approach routes and the topography are similar to the approach towards Mt. Everest. After ten-day trekking with good acclimatization, you will reach the Baruntse Base Camp at 5250 m altitude. 

Baruntse Expedition Cost

The estimated cost for the Baruntse expedition can range from $7000 to $8000 inclusive of accommodation charge in Kathmandu, permit fee, fooding, and lodging at hotels and tea houses on the way to trek and porter cost. 

The expedition royalty cost to climb Mt. Baruntse Peak depends on the season of your expedition. The spring tour costs you $500, and the autumn trip charges $250. Similarly, winter and summer trek charges $125.

You have to bear the Nepal tourist Visa cost on arrival at Tribhuvan international airport. The trek days to Mount Baruntse can take on average 30-35 days, so a 60 day Nepal tourist Visa would be appropriate, for which you have to pay $120 per person. 

An extra $100-$200 for your personal expenses such as toiletries, personal equipment, tips is advisable. 

Baruntse Climbing route

The South-East Ridge is a relatively easy ascent route, mainly on snow but at high altitudes. On the way to the summit, you will cross some ice flanks that are up to 50° steep and a striking ice cliff at an altitude of around 7000 m.

There is little sign of avalanche danger on the lower mountain slopes. Sections of the summit flank may be monitored. The steeper segments of the climb and the obvious cornices are secured with a fixed rope.

The base camp is at 5250m altitude, a few kilometers above the glacier at the valley entrance that gives access to the East Col from a camp just below the pass; it’s easy to cross the East Col to get onto a large snow-capped plateau at the lower Barun Glacier. This trail takes you just under the South East Ridge and has room for an Advanced Base Camp.

23Two camps are planned above the base camp for climbing Baruntse. Camp I is just beneath the East Col at an altitude of 5700m, and Camp II is on the southeast flank at an altitude of 6420m. The plateau could also be accessed directly from the lower Barun Glacier, but this is not recommended as an icefall on the glacier tongue has made the route impassable in recent years. So it is better to set up another high camp (Camp II) at about 6500 m altitude. From this camp, you will then undertake the summit attempt.

How difficult is it to climb Baruntse?

Climbing mont Baruntse is comparatively easy, and it is excellent training for those who want to prepare to climb mountains of 8,000 meters, as it will expose you to the rigors and difficulties of the great mountains, testing your physical and mental strength, and will give you the measure of your abilities to survive.

You need to have basic skills for steep, exposed, and technical climbing. An experience in altitude above 6,000m, ice climbing, and the ability to climb 5 to 7 hours a day will give you an added advantage. The challenging part of this expedition will be a 55 degree and 150 m high steep flank.