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Baruntse expedition is an adventurous undertaking in itself, allowing you to get to know Nepal from one of its most remote corners.

Among the hundreds of peaks in the world, Baruntse is one of the most beautiful and symmetrical snow peaks at 7162 m. and lies in the middle of three glacial valleys, the Imja, the Hunku, and the Barun valley. The peak itself occupies a central position among some of the highest peaks in the Himalayas, lying between Everest and Makalu. The reward on summit day includes spectacular views of Lhotse, Everest, and Makalu.

The first ascent was on May 30, 1954, via the southeast flank by a New Zealand expedition led by Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow. 

The Baruntse is considered to be a relatively easy and safe seven-thousander to climb and is therefore often the target of commercial expeditions like Pumori, Ama Dablam, and Everest. The route runs almost exclusively over snow and ice. It is technically not particularly difficult, with the exception of the steep ascent to West Col and the sometimes heavily overgrown ridge in the summit area.

This mountain is one of the best preparation peaks for those climbers who want to climb Mt Everest and other 8000m peaks. Baruntse Peak offers maximum chances of successfully reaching the summit. 

The most successful ascents are made in the spring from March to May when the snow conditions are good and the mountain is objectively safe. The expedition can also occur in the autumn season from late September to early December, but the temperature will start decreasing with a cool wind on the venue. 

The exploration begins with a flight from Kathmandu to Lukla; the approach routes and the topography are similar to the approach towards Mt. Everest. After ten-day trekking with good acclimatization, you will reach the Baruntse Base Camp at 5250 m altitude. 

Baruntse Expedition Cost

The estimated cost for the Baruntse expedition can range from $7000 to $8000 inclusive of accommodation charge in Kathmandu, permit fee, fooding, and lodging at hotels and tea houses on the way to trek and porter cost. 

The expedition royalty cost to climb Mt. Baruntse Peak depends on the season of your expedition. The spring tour costs you $500, and the autumn trip charges $250. Similarly, winter and summer trek charges $125.

You have to bear the Nepal tourist Visa cost on arrival at Tribhuvan international airport. The trek days to Mount Baruntse can take on average 30-35 days, so a 60 day Nepal tourist Visa would be appropriate, for which you have to pay $120 per person. 

An extra $100-$200 for your personal expenses such as toiletries, personal equipment, tips is advisable. 

Baruntse Climbing route

The South-East Ridge is a relatively easy ascent route, mainly on snow but at high altitudes. On the way to the summit, you will cross some ice flanks that are up to 50° steep and a striking ice cliff at an altitude of around 7000 m.

There is little sign of avalanche danger on the lower mountain slopes. Sections of the summit flank may be monitored. The steeper segments of the climb and the obvious cornices are secured with a fixed rope.

The base camp is at 5250m altitude, a few kilometers above the glacier at the valley entrance that gives access to the East Col from a camp just below the pass; it’s easy to cross the East Col to get onto a large snow-capped plateau at the lower Barun Glacier. This trail takes you just under the South East Ridge and has room for an Advanced Base Camp.

23Two camps are planned above the base camp for climbing Baruntse. Camp I is just beneath the East Col at an altitude of 5700m, and Camp II is on the southeast flank at an altitude of 6420m. The plateau could also be accessed directly from the lower Barun Glacier, but this is not recommended as an icefall on the glacier tongue has made the route impassable in recent years. So it is better to set up another high camp (Camp II) at about 6500 m altitude. From this camp, you will then undertake the summit attempt.

How difficult is it to climb Baruntse?

Climbing mont Baruntse is comparatively easy, and it is excellent training for those who want to prepare to climb mountains of 8,000 meters, as it will expose you to the rigors and difficulties of the great mountains, testing your physical and mental strength, and will give you the measure of your abilities to survive.

You need to have basic skills for steep, exposed, and technical climbing. An experience in altitude above 6,000m, ice climbing, and the ability to climb 5 to 7 hours a day will give you an added advantage. The challenging part of this expedition will be a 55 degree and 150 m high steep flank.

Trip Details

Normally, we establish two camps above the base camp in climbing Baruntse. The camp I is set up just below East Col. at an altitude of 5,700m and the camp II is on the South – East Ridge at a height of 6,420m. From the camp I, we cross East Col. and descend down through steep slopes. We then traverse a large snow plateau and move towards the bottom of the South – East Ridge. We then move through steeping slopes of the ridge to a small col, the site of the camp II at the height of 6,420m. From camp II, we climb steep snow slopes (45 degrees) and frequently pass a series of short steep steps of ice and snow until we reach the west side of the ridge. Then we passed through short sections of rock scrambling which leads to a marked cleft and ice cliff and getting over these leads to the easy and broader slopes and finally, to 7,129m, the summit. The descend is by the same route.

Departure/Return LocationKathmandu
Guide Meals
not included
Guide Gratuity
Hiking Equipment

  Outline Itinerary

  • Day 1: Arrival in Kathmandu
  • Day 2: Rest day in Kathmandu
  • Day 3: Flight to Lukla
  • Day 4: Trek to Chutanga
  • Day 5: Trek to Thuli Kharka
  • Day 6: Trek to Kothe
  • Day 7: Trek to Thangnak
  • Day 8: Trek to Khare
  • Day 9: Rest Day
  • Day 10: Trek to Khamedingma
  • Day 11: Trek to Seto Pokhari
  • Day 12: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp
  • Day 13- Day 28: Climbing Period
  • Day 29: Trek to Khamedingma
  • Day 30: Trek to Thangnak
  • Day 31: Trek to Chatrabu
  • Day 32: Hike to Lukla
  • Day 33: Flight to Kathmandu
  • Day 34: Departure


Detailed Itinerary

    • Arrival at the Tribhuvan international airport and transfer to a hotel and presentation of the trekking process. 


    • Full day in Kathmandu at leisure to do last-minute errands and mandatory expedition briefing.

    • Flight to Lukla and a short acclimatization hike or a visit to the pretty town.

    • The first stage trek takes through an idyllic rhododendron and pine forest up to the Chutanga high pasture at 3,450 m. In the afternoon, there is adequate time for an acclimatization hike.

    • Reach the first important pass, the Zatrawa La (4,610 m), through the high forest and increasingly alpine vegetation. From here, it goes down into the Hinku Khola (valley). Overnight in a lodge on the Thuli Kharka pasture.

    • After skirting a rocky ridge, descend steeply through rhododendrons and junipers into the Hinku valley to lodge at Kothe (4,095 m). In between, you can always grasp a glimpse of the south face of Mera Peak.

    • The steep, wooded flanks of the Kusum Kanguru (6,367 m) are crossed, then it goes all the way down into the Hinku Valley, which you continue to follow over the next few days. Soon after the tree line, the alluvial plain of Thangnak (4,350 m) is reached. 


    • A strenuous ascent leads over a moraine ridge into the high valley from Dig Kharka to Khare (5,054 m. The ice giants Mera Peak (6,476 m) and Kusum Kanguru (6,367 m) line the view.

    • Another time to recover from the exertion and get used to the altitude. In the afternoon, the equipment is checked again, and the handling of the fixed rope technique is tried out.

    • Early morning trek from Khare to Khamedingma and setting up of a camp.

    • All the way down to the extremity of the Hongu Khola. Near a small lake and the only teahouse far and wide, set up camp at about 5,200 m.

    • The last stage takes you across gentle grassy meadows and moraine terrain to the base camp at 5,400 m, which is idyllically situated on the edge of a large lake, in which the Baruntse is reflected in all its magnitude.

    • A good two weeks is now available for climbing the mountain—time to explore and ensure the ascent route and set up the camp chain. Two high camps are set up on the way to the summit. They are at 6,143 m at West Col and at 6,650 m at the start of the south ridge. The southern ridge that follows is partly steep, exposed, and overseen. Longer stretches can reach a gradient of 40°, individual short steep steps even more. All demanding passages must be secured with fixed ropes. Weather permitting, you can expect an unforgettable panoramic view from Makalu to Chamlang and Mount Everest at the summit. After descending to the base camp, the equipment is packed, and the backpacks are laced for the way back to civilization. 

    • Return trek to Khamedingma and setting up of a camp for resting period.


    • Early morning trek after breakfast to Thangnak.

    • A fresh start after a rest and heading to an early morning hike of a few hours to Chatrabu.

    • Few hours walk to Lukla and overnight stay in a beautiful town.

    • Flight from Lukla airport to Kathmandu and in the afternoon at leisure for sightseeing and shopping.

    • Transfer to the Tribhuvan International airport for final departure and back to home.

Inclusion & exclusion

Costs Include


    • 5 night’s hotel in Kathmandu in twin sharing basis with bed and breakfast (3 star)

    • Flight ticket for Kathmandu to Lukla to Kathmandu for member, staffs and equipments

    • Domestic Airport departure tax

    • Acclimatization climbs to Mera peak before climbing Baruntse

    • Permits of Mera peak

    • Permits of Baruntse

    • 1 sirdar for the whole climbing team

    • 1 climbing Sherpa for two member

    • Camping trek including food and accommodation in Tents

    • Cook and Kitchen helper at Base Camp and advance Base Camp

    • All kitchen and Dining equipments for Base Camp and ABC

    • Food, fresh vegetables, fruits, and meat at base camp during the expedition

    • High altitude food

    • High quality tents for all camps

    • All group climbing equipments

    • Porters and yaks to carry load from Lukla to Base Camp and Back to Lukla

    • Liaison officer’s equipment allowance, daily wages and other expenses

    • Equipment allowance and daily wages for all Nepali staffs

    • Insurance for all Nepali staffs and porters

Costs Exlcudes

    • Meals in Kathmandu

    • All personal climbing equipments

    • All personal expenses

    • Summit bonus and tips for the staffs

    • Insurance of climbing members

    • All other additional charges for additional services