Pumori expedition takes you to one of the pearls of the Himalayas, which has been attracting both simple and experienced climbers for decades. Pumori is one of the most accessible peaks in Nepal. The approach to the Base Camp does not take much time and is entertaining trekking.
Pumori Peak, at the height of 7161 m, is located in the Khumbu-Himal Himalayan range, part of the Chomolungma mountain junction. The Western Rongbuk and Khumbu glaciers flow around the ridge from the south and north. Among the Europeans, the members of the British reconnaissance expedition (1921) were the first to see the peaks of Lingtren, Pumori, and Nuptse. Seeing a beautiful mountain from the Rongbuk glacier, D. Mallory, who died on Everest two years later, called it the Sherpa word Pumori (“unmarried daughter”).
The Khumbu Himal is the border between Nepal and Tibet. The borderline is very conditional. When approaching the summit from the south (from Nepal), there are no obstacles for crossing to the northern (Tibetan) side of the ridge. Therefore, ascents to the summit are carried out from all sides. Since it is located in a high-altitude nival zone, there is no vegetation on the rocks and moraine deposits of glaciers.
The classic route for this trek is along the southern ridge. The reward for climbing it will be a fantastic view that opens from the top of Pumori – you can simultaneously see four eight-thousanders at once – Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho-Oyu.
Climbing the Himalayan peak begins with a long and difficult approach from Lukla airport through the Nepalese mountains, the ascent to the villages of Tengboche, Dingboche, Lobuche, crossing the Khumbu glacier.
Gorak Shep becomes the last point before going to the top along the classic route. On the site of the base camps of the former Everest expeditions, the Sherpas built a small settlement with wooden huts (“lodges”), a cafe, and a helipad.
For climbers on Pumori, the village of Gorak Shep is especially convenient, as it eliminates the need to set up your own base camp. If you climb from Gorak Shep up the Khumbu glacier, you can see the entire classic route to the mountain.
At the beginning of the route, ropes were hung by the previous groups, so you can save your own equipment for difficult sections of the route. The first camp is set up at an altitude of 5800. There are convenient platforms on a stone hill from where it is possible to work the icefall leading to the southeastern ridge.
On the descent, which passes along the ascent path, climbers must be careful and attentive. The desire to descend quickly, intensified by fatigue, leads to accidents. The entire journey to Pumori takes a trained group 4-5 days.
The all-inclusive cost for the Pumori expedition ranges from $9000 to $10,000 per person, depending on the group size, hotel accommodation category, and facilities you reserved in the mountain. The cost includes permit fee, food, accommodation during the trek, porter and Sherpa guide fee, climbing gears, and equipment.
The expedition permit cost to Mount Pumori relies on the season you choose for your trek. Since the spring season is considered the peak and most favorable for the climb, the expedition permit fee set by the Nepal government is $500 per person. The trek in the autumn season will cost you $250 per person, and the winter and summer expedition will charge you $125 per person.
The costs that you exclusively have to pay include Nepal tourist Visa cost, Kathmandu stay, your personal expenses, tips to porter and guide, and travel and medical insurance.
Since the expedition to Pumori can take approximately 30-35 days, it is wise to issue a 60 day Nepal tourist Visa at $120 per person upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International airport. After comfortably settling in a hotel in Kathmandu, you can explore this beautiful and legendary city if you have time. Meals and snacks at any decent hotel or restaurant in Kathmandu can cost you $25-$30 per person.
Though Pumori is a seven thousand mountain propounding less technical difficulty, it is always advisable and mandatory that you insure yourself first before embarking on the journey. Paying $150-$200 per person for a 30 day time period, you can ensure a safe and pleasant journey.
Setting aside $200-$300 for tipping your guide and porter and buying souvenirs as you dwell through the colorful market of Namche Bazaar and Kathmandu would be ideal.
Although the Nepal government issues the climbing permit for all seasons, the most favorable season for climbing Pumori and viewing it in all its glory would be the spring season, from April to May, as the temperature at the foot of Pumori does not exceed +18°C in these months making your trek exemplary.
In the winter season, from late December to February, the temperature in Pumori drops to -35°C and lower (depending on wind currents). However, the winter season is more favorable than the summer season (June to August). It will have a minimal risk of ice collapses due to low temperatures and a long absence of snowfall during this period.
During the monsoon period (mid-May – September), climbing Pumori is unsuitable due to snowfalls and avalanche danger. There will be a lot of snowfall around September, so avalanches may frequently occur day and night.
The other favorable time period to trek to Pumori is from the latter half of November to early December(Autumn season). The season is marked by the stability of snow, calm wind, and moderate daytime temperature.
If you follow the classic route along the South-Eastern ridge, your trek to Pumori will be relatively simple, easy, and less challenging. The technical difficulty is not high, and there’s less possibility of an avalanche. The other normal route that you can take is through the southern ridge. It is the second most climbed after the usual route, and although there is little danger of avalanches, there are many elements of rock climbing that require skill and power.
However, you shouldn’t underestimate the potential risk of high peak climbing such as Pumori. Skills of walking on difficult ice terrain, mastering the techniques of climbing along the railing, descending with a rappel, teamwork, physical and mental fitness, and periodic acclimatization are key to success at the summit.