LOBUCHE PEAK CLIMBING

Lobuche peak climbing has begun to resemble a pilgrimage for beginners and first-time climbers as the Lobuche peak climbing is engaging, accessible, and simple compared to other peaks of Nepal. 

Lobuche peak is still a less-visited mountain, and this gives this route its own peculiarity. Lobuche peak has two peaks: Lobuche East at 6119 m and Lobuche West at 6145 m. Although the peaks are connected by a common ridge, they are at a considerable distance, and there is also a steep fault in the ridge. Therefore, it is extremely rare to climb both peaks in one ascent. The first ascent of Lobuche East was made in 1984 by Lawrence Nilson and Ang Gyaltsen Sherpa.

Among the two, Lobuche East is the most popular and visited trekking peak in Nepal. And this is not surprising because the road to the mountain is the famous track to the Everest Base Camp, and the mountain itself is located in close proximity to the Everest–Lhotse–Nuptse massif. On the slopes of Lobuche, you can not only get the experience of climbing the not-so-simple 6000-nick but also enjoy the views of the Top of the World and other Nepalese giant mountains surrounding it.

Here you have the opportunity to test your climbing skills by simply climbing rocks and overcoming a steep snow-ice slope. Nevertheless, the route is considered simple and is passed in one day; dangerous places are hung with ropes.

The usual route for climbing is through South Ridge. You will follow the Everest Base Camp trek from Lukla, Namche Bazaar, Dingboche, and then to the summit. Lobuche Peak Base Camp is set up at 4950 m near a lake in a hollow rock at the foot of the glaciated Southwest Face. The views of Amadablam, Cholatse, Thamserku, Kantega Peak, and Tawache Peak are outstanding from here. 

You will then descend steep stone terraces and snow slopes just below the glaciers on the southwest side of Lobuche East. You will go down steep snow and ice slopes with fixed ropes and gain access to the ridge overlooking Lobuche and the Khumbu Glacier, where you will fix the high camp. Then you will follow the path north-west towards the peak past several small snow bumps and reach a notch. You will continue to climb steep and rather difficult snow slopes to the true summit. The summit can be climbed from the East Face by climbing a dark pyramid of slabby rock and along the South Ridge to get to the summit.

The high season for climbing falls in April and May, marking the beginning of the Spring season. September, October, and November are also the favorable season for Lobuche peak climbing. These months are characterized by cool, calm weather of the autumn season. 

Lobuche Peak Permit cost

You need three permits to embark on the expedition to Lobuche: Expedition permit, Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit, and Everest Base camp trek permit. 

Lobuche Expedition Permit

Lobuche peak, as mentioned above, is classified as Lobuche East and Lobuche West. Lobuche East has been classified as a trekking peak and Lobuche West as an expedition peak. A permit is needed to climb the mountain from both sides from the National Mountaineering Association (NMA) of Nepal. In 2015, the Ministry of Tourism and Civil Aviation and the Nepal Mountaineering Association created a new system; accordingly, the climbing permit is issued per person depending on the season and height. So for climbing Lobuche peak in the spring season (the high season), the authority charges $250 per person valid for 1 month. Similarly, the autumn trek costs you $125 per person, and the summer and winter trek costs $70 per person. Keep in mind that the permit can be extended; they are nominative and cannot be transferred to other climbers.

Everest Base Camp Trek Permit

Since the Lobuche peak lies in the Everest region adjacent to the highest peak on the planet, the route to the Lobuche peak passes through Everest Base camp, for which you need an Everest Base camp permit which you can obtain in Kathmandu at Nepal Tourism Board Office or in Monjo at Park Entrance Gate. The cost for the permit is $30 per person.

Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit

The permit was imposed in 2018, replacing the old TIMS card. You can’t obtain the permit from Kathmandu. The local government of the Khumbu region charges $20 per person at the entrance to the region. The other option for you is to pay the fare at Lukla.

How hard is it to climb Lobuche Peak?

Climbing the Lobuche peak is not considered difficult, but it is necessary to be able to move along the snow-ice slopes and have an idea about climbing techniques. Climbing to the top is within the power of everyone who wants to climb it. Most of the program for the mountain expedition is designed with the gradual acclimatization of the participants, allowing them to normally adapt to the altitude.

Comparatively, Lobuche East is technically easy to climb than Lobuche West. So Lobuche East trek is more popular among beginner climbers. This attractive peak offers many interesting routes, which mostly start on the southern slope. The peak consists of several small peaks, and in order to reach the main one, it is necessary to overcome a lot of snow and ice slopes. Though Peak Lobuche is the easiest, climbers here require the use of skills to move along snow-ice and rock routes. The Lobuche base camp is located at an altitude of 4950 m near the lake, in a rocky depression at the foot of the icy southwestern slope. Therefore, serious organization and attention to detail are required, but such an ascent is no longer comparable in complexity to expeditions to the highest peaks in the world. Crampons, an ice ax, and insurance may still be required to overcome some ice and rocky areas, but weather and logistics issues play a smaller role. Depending on the climbing route and the season, the complexity of the expedition may vary.

Climbing or trekking experience at altitudes of around 5000m, as well as technical skills such as the ability to walk in crampons and the use of a railing belay, are highly desirable to participate in the Climbing Lobuche program.

How much does it cost to climb Lobuche Peak?

The overall cost of Lobuche peak climbing varies depending on the itinerary, amenities available, and the facilities you desire at the base camp and along the route. Still, the average cost of Lobuche peak climbing range between $2000-$2500 per person excluding Nepal Tourist Visa fare, personal expenses, Kathmandu stay and trip cost, and medical and travel insurance. The cost includes:

• Food and accommodation.
• Permit cost.
• Porter and guide cost.
• Equipment cost.
• Air ticket fare to Lukla. 

The Excluded fare Amount:

• Nepal tourist visa, which you can issue upon your arrival at Tribhuvan International airport. If your Nepal visit goal is only Lobuche peak climbing, a 30 days Visa is more than enough, for which you have to pay $50 per person. 

• All participants planning to climb Lobuche Peak must be insured. Insurance – high-risk categories, with the possibility of evacuation by helicopter, is advised. The amount of coverage is not less than 40,000 USD. At the cost of $150-$200 per person for a 30 day time period, you have a safe, secure, and confident journey.

• Climbing Lobuche Peak involves a long stay at a high altitude, so climbers should not have contraindications to such loads. In case of doubt, before starting the expedition, it is necessary to seek the advice of a doctor. It is necessary to have a minimum of medical preparations with you, such as analgesics, as well as tablets that disinfect water. You may need personal equipment and toiletries, and you may also want to tip the guide and porter, so set aside $200-$300 for this purpose. 

• A day or two stays in the scenic valley of Kathmandu will certainly help you get acquainted with Nepalese culture and tradition. A decent meal, shopping, and trip to the valley can be made at $40-$50 per person. Another spare of $100-$200 for the purpose is advisable. 

Lobuche Peak vs. Island Peak

Island peak and Lobuche peak both are six thousand colleagues of Nepal, both mountains situated in the Everest region. However, Lobuche differs from Island peak in that it is not so popular among climbers; there is no such crowd as on Island Peak. This makes it possible for a group of climbers not to share with others either the overcoming of difficulties on the way to the top or the joy of reaching it. Climbing Lobuche East is a small adventure and an opportunity to experience the taste of real mountaineering in the Himalayas.

Island peak at 6160 m and Lobuche peak at 6119 m are not two different mountains in terms of altitude. Both mountains are the best option for beginners and climbers with less mountaineering experience. The route to both summits is not too complicated and is accessible to those who have initial climbing skills. Both peaks are located in the Khumbu region, one of the points on the track to Everest. Therefore, climbing Lobuche and Island peaks is a great opportunity to combine one of the most impressive trekking in the world and climbing a six-thousand in the Himalayas in one trip.

Island peak was first conquered in 1951, and Lobuche peak in 1954. 

The route to both six thousand mountains begins from Lukla with a transition to Namche Bazaar- a colorful market and ethnic village of Sherpas. A passage through the Mani walls will take you further to Khumbu valley, Tengboche, and Dingboche. Both mountain tops will reward you with exceptional views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and other surrounding giant mountains of Nepal.

Favorable times to climb both these mountains are Spring (from March to May) and autumn ( late September to early December).

The expedition permit cost for both Island peak and Lobuche peak are the same depending on the season: 

• Spring: $250 per person
• Autumn: $125 per person
• Summer and Winter: $70 per person

The median cost for expediting Island peak ranges from $1500-$3000 per person and for Lobuche peak between $2000-$2500 per person. 

The approximate itinerary essential for trekking both the mountains is 15-20 days. 

Depending on the level of your expertise, after acquiring the necessary permits, you can do the solo trek to Island peak and Lobuche peak, but hiring a guide or porter is advised who can accommodate you and help in your pace consistency, and guide you through the route.

Both peaks are the breathtaking crown jewel of Nepal which can also be your perfect acclimatization zone on the way to Mount Everest.