Island peak climbing in the Himalayas is the most famous trekking route that gives you an extraordinary experience, impressions, calm emotions, and a memory for life. Along with the Island peak climbing, exceptional views of Everest, Ama Dablam, and Lhotse will accompany you throughout the route. You can feel the power of the Nepalese mountains, the strength of your own capabilities, and the special atmosphere of Nepal along the path.
A 6160 m high Island Peak is located in the very center of the mountains of Nepal and is a direct continuation of the southern part of the Lhotse Shar peak. This mountain is also often referred to as Imja Tse. It is like an island in a sea of ice among the giants Nuptse (7861 m), Lhotse (8516 m), Lhotse Central (8410 m), and Lhotse Shar (8383 m), located in a semicircle in the north.
And in the east rise the icefalls hanging from Lhotse Shar, and behind the top of Cho Polu (6735 m), you can see the red granite Makalu (8463 m). And in the south, the gaze glides past the icy slopes of Baruntse (7162m) and the peaks of Amphu to the high rock tower of Ama Dablam (6812 m), which is like a giant sea guard guarding the entrance to this glacial bay located around Island Peak.
The first conquest of the mountain occurred in 1953 by Charles Evans, Charles Wylie, Alf Gregory, and Tenzing Norgay, with 7 Sherpas on the southeast slope and south ridge. The ascent was made in preparation for the ascent of Everest. Participants also tested new oxygen equipment.
The name Island Peak was given to the peak in 1951 by members of the British expedition led by Eric Shipton. Island Peak was given the name Imja Tse in 1983 as part of a summit renaming campaign, but its original name is better known in the mountaineering world.
The route begins, as well as trekking to the Everest Base Camp – from the arrival in Lukla. A further transition takes you to the capital of the Sherpas – Namche Bazaar. The further way to the top passes through the Khumbu valley. From the moraine in Dingboche, the peak does not look too impressive, as it is lost against the background of the South Face, located next to it, one of the Himalayan giants, Lhotse. However, if you get closer to it and look from the glacier descending from the western side of Lhotse, you can see Island Peak in all its glory.
Climbing Island Peak is relatively easy and doesn’t require technical expertise or special skills and special physical training. All you need to know is tethering, working with a rope, and a belay device. Therefore, climbing Island Peak can be combined with a family trip with your loved one: your soulmate or parents. You can let them go on the Everest base camp route, go to Island Peak for 4 days, and then meet together in Kathmandu. This is a common practice among tourists.
However, the trek should not be taken lightly as you will be walking on snow and ice fields, moving in with ice axes along the railings, stairs through cracks, and at the end – 150-200 meters of a steep take-off and working with a jumar. The trek can be adventurous and relatively easy if you have experience from previous ascents to heights above 5000 m. However, the Island peak is changing; the glacier itself is quite indented. It has become very crooked. It has even become somewhat similar to the Khumbu glacier in some areas.
Such a climb is much more interesting than just trampling, and Island Peak will serve as excellent preparation for subsequent ascents to higher and more technical peaks.
There are two optimal periods for this trek: spring season (April – May) and autumn (October – November); at this time, you can expect the least amount of precipitation. During the day on the top of Mount Island Peak, the air temperature is about -8 ° C, accompanied by clear blue and cloudless sky, greater visibility, longer daytime periods, no rainfall, and, more importantly, stability of the ice. The Nepal Government issues a permit to climb in the winter and summer seasons as well; however, these periods are not considered favorable. The Winter season beginning from late September to February can be followed by snowfall, avalanches, shorter days, and bone-chilling temperatures at night. The summer season from June to August is also unfavorable as the hot, humid days will go hand in hand with heavy rainfalls making the path more slippery with the potential risk of landslides.
The approximate cost for climbing Island Peak ranges from $1500- to $3000 per person, depending on the number of days you aim to stay and explore the mountain. The overall cost includes:
The personal expenses that you have to cover yourself are: