The day started with breakfast outside. The chairs and table were wet from the morning dew, but the sun was already warming up the air. The night had been cold—as all previous nights—and the chill settles in as soon as the sun goes down.

Today’s hike was a little steeper than yesterday, still taking us through dense forest. We met many more trekkers along the way, going in both directions, and were surprised that the majority seemed to be Nepalese, with only a few from outside the country. Most groups were small, with just a few trekkers or even solo hikers.

Our teahouse for the night offers a beautiful 360° view, as we’ve now climbed above the tree line. In the common room, the couches double as beds at night. All the Sherpas prefer drinking hot water—not tea or coffee—and China enjoys hot water too, while Lisa still prefers her water to have been visited by a teabag.

Tomorrow awaits a three-hour walk with a gentler ascent of about 200 meters, compared to today’s 600 meters, as we continue up toward the base camp.