4th April 2010- I hiked back to base camp with a porter to carry the rope.
5th April, 2010- Rest day for me Mingmar hiked down to Panboche to get a 12 Volt Charger for satellite phone.
6th April, 2010- Mingmar and I carried fixed line up- half way between camp I and II we went back to camp I for the night.
7th April, 2010-Carried gear to camp II then back to camp I.
8th April, 2010-We carried more Gear up to camp 2 then we went back to Base camp arriving just before dark.
9th April, 2010-Rest day at base camp.
11th April, 2010
Mingmar and I moved up to camp 1 after lunch. Our plan was to move up to camp 2 the next day and than try for the summit from camp 2. We got up to camp one at 4:30 PM taking a little less than three hours. We settled into camp and laid out our gear for the move the next day up to camp 2.
12th April, 2010
We packed up and headed to camp 2 at 7:30 AM. It took about 4 ½ hours to get to camp 2. We set up our tent, had some lunch and sorted our gear for our summit try. The route above camp 2 is fixed most of the way to camp 3, but nearly all of the rope is from previous years and not in very good shape. A Russian group of four is the only group to summit this year. We passed them on our way to camp two today and talked with them. They had left camp 3 at 6 AM and did not get back to camp 3 until midnight. Above camp three the route is primarily on hard blue ice with no fixed line. On their way down from camp 3 they had several ropes / fixed line break on the grey tower, above camp 2. We had dinner and tried to get some sleep after 6 PM. We planned to get up at midnight and leave by 1 or 2 PM.
We woke up at midnight to find several inches of fresh snow. We had not slept well after 10 PM when thunder and lightning started. Snow started to fall by 10:30 PM. At midnight when we woke up we looked outside and realized that the grey tower above camp 2 would be very difficult. With the condition of the fixed line and weather we decided to not try going up. Later in the morning we discussed our options and decided to go down. By noon Mingmar and I packed up camp 2 and headed down to camp 1. Our loads were quite heavy and the fresh snow made the route down difficult, especially on some of the traverse sections. At camp 1 we packed up the rest of our gear. Mingmar had a very heavy load with two tents and the cooking gear. We got back to base camp around 5:30 PM. We will pack up and head to Everest base camp for our attempt to climb Lhotse.
14th April, 2010
Today we began to pack up base camp.
15th April, 2010
Base camp was packed and the yaks arrived by 9 AM. All was packed up by 1 PM. Mingmar and I headed down to Pangboche ahead of the yaks. By early afternoon we were checked into a lodge. Tomorrow morning we head towards Everest base camp for our Lhotse climb. Our AmaDablam climb is over and now we turn our attention to Lhotse.
16th April, 2010
The yaks left early this morning (6 AM). Mingmar, our porter and I left at 8 AM. Mingmar and I got to Everest base camp at 5 PM and the yaks and porter arrived around 6:30PM.