Daily Dispatches

Title: USA/JAMAICA Everest Expedition 2009

16 April 2009 : The acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 was a success...

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Pemba climbing up the ladder

The acclimatization rotation to Camp 1 was a success! We had an early morning start at 5 AM and Pemba and I move fairly well through the lower section of the icefall. Several teams were on the move up, so at times it was a bit crowded. Above the popcorn we stopped for a rest and then continued the slog. Pemba had been to C1 and C2 to drop loads before, so he was feeling his usual superman self. I, on the other hand, slowed considerably. Finally at the top of the icefall and into the rollers that lead us to Camp1 I'd take 5 breaths for every step to negotiate the hills. Pemba said that it was all downhill and flat to camp and that he would give me his Mariah Carey buff if I made the last 300 feet to camp in 10 minutes. Knowing that Pemba would never ever part with his buff, I wondered what the catch was. I went mach speed and soon found the two huge hills that I had to climb; each required 10 minutes of recovery, to get to camp.

Giving a helping hand in the icefall to cross the ladder

Kame went ahead to C1 and we crises crossed paths in the icefall. He'll be coming back up tomorrow. I'm not sure why he's not spending the night with us tonight.


up up up the icefall ladders

Camp 1 is set in a most beautiful spot almost at the intersection of the Western Camp and the Icefall. The scenery here is simply magnificent; however, the price for this spot is total exposure to the elements and pay we did. We had a nice sunny afternoon to relax and acclimatize, but as soon as the sun goes down the temp drops 40-50 degrees in 30 minutes. The wind and snow got us that night and hit the tent hard, but luckily for us we were nice and toasty in -20 degree sleeping bags. Nature called at about 11 PM and I had the pleasure of stepping out into the elements - the absolutely fastest business I have ever done, period!

Pemba puttind on crampons at the start of 0the icefall