18 April 2008: At camp one there were forty to fifty tents with many occupied ...
Kame, Mingmar and Pemba (camp two cook) left at 6 AM for a carry of gear to camp one. Ngima and I left a few minutes later for camp one. The Sherpa’s carried about 60 pounds each. I only carried my gear for the overnight stay at camp one (~ 45 pounds). It took Ngima and me four and one half hours to get to camp one. More than an hour was lost waiting behind slower climbers and waiting at ladders. Thirty minutes was lost at one ladder while many Sherpa’s camp back down from carrying loads to camp one. I was surprised to have my first load carry to camp one go so easily. The three previous trips up the icefall have certainly helped.
At camp one there were forty to fifty tents with many occupied with climbers. This camp gives your first view up into the Western Cum. It includes a good view of the route up the Lhotse Face to the South Col.
Since we arrived at camp one before 11 AM we had plenty of time to settle in. Our tent was already full of gear for camp two, but there was room in the middle for our two sleeping pads. Ngima melted snow and fixed lunch – dinner through the afternoon. We called base camp at 6 PM and finished dinner by 7 PM.
The wind continued to pick up through the afternoon and blew all night. I would guess that it was between twenty to thirty miles per hour. Having not brought a book up on this carry I was faced with eleven hours of on and off sleep. I will definitely bring a book up next time.
Chet hiked up to Pumo Ri base camp with Steve Altmin and Anna Mckinlay (HRA doctors). The base camp is located at 18,800 feet and has excellent views of Everest. They were back to base camp by 1:30 PM.