Daily Dispatches

Title: The WMS Everest Expedition 2012

3rd April - 8th April , 2012 - Island Peak

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Team on summit of Island Peak (6189m)

3rd April - 8th April 2012 - Island Peak

Happy Easter to all! We have been out of contact for a few days. While we have been away I had my 45th birthday! Feels just like 44 but what an amazing place to celebrate. We send shout outs to Steph, Tillie, Ben, Hardeys, Pinar, Natalie, Mamma, pojkarna, svarsystrarna, Kirsten, Eric, Angela, Zach, Des, Frank, Rick and parents! We miss you all. After a short stay in Chukhung and an acclimatization hike to Chukhung Ri (18155 feet) we moved to Island peak base camp at 16500 feet. We hoped to summit the next day but bad weather moved in overnight, snow with lightning and thunder. We got only about 6 inches but decided to take rest day and go for it the next day.

We got up at 12:30 AM 4/7/12 had some hot tea a quick breakfast and got on our way by 1:30. The first 4 hours consisted of steep hiking with a good bit of scrabling. This was made a little more difficult for those wearing our big boots! After crossing a very exposed rocky ridge, we roped up and moved onto a glacier.  Around 8 AM we reached the ice wall just below the summit ridge. Using our Jumars we ice climbed up the fixed ropes. It was a little congested at the top with other climbers and had to wait our turn to summit. Around 10:30 Chris, Bob, Mark and Johanna, Mingmar and Pemba Rita summitted Island Peak (20305 feet)! It was more challenging than I expected which made it all the more special. On the way down we were met by Mingma and one of the cooks, Pemba with cold Mango and cookies. We also got to exchange our big boots for our regular hiking boots now that we were off the glacier and no longer needed our crampons. This made the decent a little easier. Back in camp we crashed into our sleeping bags. We were brought hot tea and mo mos and immediately fell into a coma. We were awoken later for dinner and then went quickly back to sleep. We got up a 7 AM today after our much needed rest for our hike out to Pheriche. 

We are now sitting around our dinner table with full stomachs, clean bodies for those who showered and thicker air to breath. We all feel great. Tomorrow we start our treck onto Everest base camp.

Bob Sullivan

Bob's birthday cake

Bob's birthday cake

 

Bob cutting cake

Bob cutting cake

 
 

Everyone enjoying a bit of cake

Everyone enjoying a bit of cake

 

Mingmar offering a Khada scarf to Bob on his birthday

Mingmar offering a Khada scarf to Bob on his birthday

 

Farming Potatoes in Dingboche

Farming Potatoes in Dingboche

 

Huseyin hiking to Chukung Ri

Huseyin hiking to Chukung Ri

 

Shobita hiking to Chukung Ri

Shobita hiking to Chukung Ri

 

At the summit of Chukung Ri(5535mtr.)

At the summit of Chukung Ri(5535mtr.)

 

In Sunrise eco lodge at Chukung

In Sunrise eco lodge at Chukung

 

Johanna with friends from Sweden

Johanna with friends from Sweden

 

Heading towards Island Peak base camp

Heading towards Island Peak base camp

 

Island Peak Base camp

Island Peak Base camp

 

Praticing climbing skills

Praticing climbing skills

 

Crossing Glacier

Crossing Glacier

 

Climbers on ice wall

Climbers on ice wall

 

Bob eating snack with sunrise over Amadablam

Bob eating snack with sunrise over Amadablam

 

Bob with Ice wall a head

Bob with Ice wall a head

 

Climbing Island Peak

Climbing Island Peak

 

Johanna approching summit

Johanna approching summit

 

Mark and Bob on Summit

Mark and Bob on Summit

 

Leaving Island peak

Leaving Island peak

 

Arriving Pheriche

Arriving Pheriche