Mingmar, Nigma and French team’s sherpa climbed up to fix the ropes to the steepest parts of the glacier at 12.20. Meanwhile we set up our gear for the climb. At 3 o’clock snowstorm started and we heard thunder and avalanches roaring all around us. We got worried as dark was approaching, storm was getting worse and still no sign of our guides. Finally, at 5, we started hearing voices from the route and they materialized from the storm! Later Mingmar told us they had fallen thousand times on the rocky slabs at the lower parts of the route. Because of the circumstances the odds were against us and we decided to see the conditions next morning.