After arriving Island Peak Base camp on the 19th and done necessary preparations with our climbing gear, we were really set to go on the early morning of the 20th. At 3 am we got the sad information that a snowstorm had rolled in over the last couple of hours and our tents were more or less berried in snow. We had to wait with the summit attempt… Disappointed we just had to accept the fact and go back to sleep.
The following 24 hours was about the toughest and most boring in a long time. Just laying there in our tents waiting and waiting. Time was about to run out, wouldn’t we even get a chance to try? Then, suddenly the next night, the snowing became a little less, and we decided to give it a shot. This was our last change. We started early morning from base camp, in completely darkness and found our way up through snowy paths with headlamps on, slowly meter for meter. We passed high camp and attack camp before sunrise. When the sun came up the weather suddenly got perfect. We could see amazing views over the Himalayan mountaintops and it was time to put our crampons and climbing gears on.
First we had to pass a glacier with deep crevasses where we had to connect to each other with ropes. After a while we reached the steep wall which we had to climb before getting to the ridge up to the summit. The weather had now gone worse again and we had to struggle a couple of hours on the mountainside before finally reaching the summit. We made it!! At about 11.30 am three of us finally reached the summit of Island Peak at 6.189 meters above sea level. Even though the weather wasn’t especially good it felt awesome to just sit on the summit for a well deserved break. After a while we had to force ourselves to start our descending. It was three exhausted and hungry guys coming down to base camp in the afternoon. A very long day had come to an end and we all fell asleep happily in our tents.
-Mikael and Hakan