After my first decent sleep, we were away before 8:00 am. We came upon a large Chinese group of self-supported trekkers just as we started the long, steep climb up to Bahandanda. As we enjoyed our tea at the top the Chinese straggled in, the youngest one pointing at Mingmar, demanding "how much, how much". Chhongnuri agreed to ask around for a porter for their group to hire. Unfortunately for them, Nepal's biggest festival, Dashain, had just started and nobody in town was passing up a huge party, no matter how good the money. From Bahandanda onwards we were finally off the road and the trail was fantastic. It was everything I had pictured for a trek in Nepal; a narrow, rocky path teetering along sheer cliffs with a thundering river far below. Waterfalls splashed down from impossible heights where clouds swirled with the afternoon buildup. We had a great lunch at Ghermu overlooking a huge cascade 111 meters high. We continued our trek, hopscotching over a few of the Chinese and three gregarious Frenchman, until the last few kilometers, when the trail turned back into a steep road. The rain caught us again as we came into town at last; another full day. Chhongnuri observed that I walked "like a young person", which I'm taking as a compliment. We think that we can shave a day off the climb to Thorang La Pass, our high point at 5416 meters (17,700 feet), which we will then add back to our descent into Jomson in a week's time.