To borrow a phrase; nasty, brutish and, above all, long. That could be used to describe the seven hours we took to drive only 200 kilometers to Besi Sharar, the trailhead for the Annapurna Circuit. Bumper to bumper diesel trucks and buses plus an accident that stopped traffic for a full hour. And stifling hot; like sitting in a hot tub only way less enjoyable. Our highly skilled driver did his best to make up for lost time, while shaving years off my life. It took me a while to realize that the incessant blaring of horns was actually part of a complex pattern of driver communication along with flashing headlights, hand signals and blinking turn lights. I could eventually relax, though we barreled head long into a wall of oncoming traffic only to weave and bob our way through with centimeters to spare. That allowed me to raise my eyes above the mayhem and roadside squalor to the lush terraced fields of rice, soy and corn that stretched above us out of sight. The road followed the stunning Marsyangdi river with its powerful rapids and deep defiles. A memorable ride leaving me exhausted just being a passenger! In Besi Shahar, afternoon showers obscured the surrounding peaks and we fell into bed right after dinner.