Peak Promotion

I got my flights changed and will be back home on May 24th.

May 21st, 2010:
My climb is over today. Our flight got our morning and before lunch time I was back in Kathmandu. Mingmar and I got back. Ngima and our bags did not. They remained in Lukla as flights were stopped due to high winds after the morning flights. Ngima and our bags did get out the next day and we are all back in Kathmandu.

May 20th, 2010:
It was a shorter walk today from Namche to Lukla. After descending the trail below Namche down to the river it became quite warm. From that point on to Lukla we all suffered a bit in the warmer conditions.
I was a little sore from the previous days walk so my pace was not too quick. We got to Lukla around 2 PM. The flights were still coming in and out at Lukla and continued until nearly 5 PM. There had not been any flights to Lukla during the two previous days. Fortunately they were able to catch up today.

May 19th, 2010:
After breakfast we started our walk back to Lukla. Today we went from base camp all the way back to Namche. It was a long day with only one stop for lunch and a couple short breaks. I got to Namche just before dark at 7 PM. A hot shower and a real bed made a good finish to a long day.

May 18th, 2010:
I packed up my gear today. I also got a shower and clean clothes. We will start our trek back to Lukla tomorrow.

May 17th, 2010:
After some good sleep it was easier to get packed up and ready to move this morning. One of the worst parts about ending a climb is that you have all of your gear to carry back to base camp. For me that meant about 35 kg in my pack. The Sherpa’s have much more weight than that. We left camp 2 around 10 AM and arrived back at base camp at 2 PM. This was another tough day. On our kitchen staff met me near the last ladder in the icefall and carried my pack the rest of the way. That was a big help!

May 16th, 2010:
We did not get moving very early this morning. It was nearly noon before we had gotten packed up and headed down to camp 2. I don’t think any of us slept very well. My progress down the Lhotse face was slow. I was still very tired from the previous day’s ordeal. Once off the face I had Mingmar and Ngima go on to camp 2. I moved along slowly to camp at least an hour behind them. At camp 2 we were able to get rehydrated and ate quite a bit. We finally were able to get some good sleep.

May 15th, 2010:
Mingmar got up to camp 3 ~ 6:30 AM this morning. Ngima and I had some tea and rice pudding before packing up to leave. By 7:30 AM we were on our way up the Lhotse Face towards our camp 4. Progress was very slow due to many climbers moving up the mountain. Mingmar, Ngima and I were all using oxygen. I had my regulator set and 1 liter per minute. Just below the Yellow Band I had my regulator turned up to 1 ½ liter per minute. I was feeling the effect of little sleep last night. With the crowded conditions moving up the fixed line we made few stops. We just tried to keep our place in line moving up the face. It was fairly sunny and the wind continued through the day at a fairly moderate clip.

After the Yellow Band and near the start of the Geneva Spur our fixed line split off from the line leading on up to Everest camp 4. By 2:30 PM were at our camp 4 for Lhotse. The sight was not good. Several other groups of climbers were working to repair their tents after all of the high winds. Our tent was completely destroyed. All of the poles were bent or broken. Much of the fly and tent shell was torn (actually shredded). For the next couple hours we dug drifted snow off the remains of our tent. We tried to come up with a way to stay at camp four and have a chance for a summit attempt. Unfortunately we had no good options left. By 6 PM we had the tent remains packed up along with all of our oxygen that had been brought up for our summit try. We headed back down to camp 3.
Our progress back down was very slow. I was exhausted at this point and really held Mingmar and Ngima up on our way back down. It was dark by the time we got below the yellow band which made progress even slower. I don’t remember very many times on other climbs where I was more tired. Several times I just wanted to lie down and sleep. Fortunately Mingmar and Ngima kept pushing me along. We finally got back to camp 3 around 10 PM. We climbed back into the tents and quickly went to sleep.

May 14th, 2010:
After a good nights sleep we headed on up to camp 3. Ngima and I left around 7:30 AM while Mingmar remained at camp 2. The plan is for Ngima to stay at camp 3 tonight. Tomorrow morning Mingmar will catch us at camp 2 and move up to camp 4 with us.
When we arrived at camp 3 we found the tents in poor shape. They were partially7 buried by drifting snow. There were also a couple broken poles. It took several hours of digging and minor repairs to make them usable. The tent Ngima and I were using was only dug out partially. We were afraid that digging it out completely might result in a broken pole. The wind continued through the night and blew snow back over the tent leaving us buried about the same in the morning, as we had found the tent when we first camp back up to camp 3. I got very little sleep during the night.

May 13th, 2010:
We are up at 4 AM this morning. After some tea and breakfast we are on our way up through the icefall by 5:30 AM. We were at camp 2 by 11:15 AM. We had fairly stiff winds most of the way up. After arriving at camp 2 the winds seemed to drop a bit and also seemed lighter up higher of the mountain. Maybe we will get lucky with the forecast!

May 12th, 2010:
Today is our last rest day before heading up to camp 2. We packed up some food and remaining gear for our summit try. The weather is still sunny and windy. It looks very windy up high. We try to rest most of the day, get dinner early and to bed early.

May 11th, 2010:
After breakfast this morning I hiked up to Puma Ri advanced base camp (~19,000 feet). I was back for lunch. We are still planning to go up on the 13th for our summit attempt. Still sunny and windy!

May 10th, 2010:
Again we remain at base camp. It is still sunny with light to moderate winds. The forecast for up high on the mountains is for continued high winds until the 22nd or 23rd. There is a slight chance for a brief drop in the winds around the 15th to the 178th. At this point we are planning to go back up on the 13th.

May 9th, 2010:
Today Mingmar and Ngima talked with the Russian climbers at base camp. They had gotten within 150 meters of the summit on Lhotse before they had to turn back. One of their climbers had become ill – probably Cerebral Edema. Before they were able to get back to camp 4 he had died. They apparently had bee climbing without oxygen. They had cut open our duffel bag in our tent at camp 4 in search of oxygen, mask and regulator. All we had at the camp was our oxygen. We had not taken the masks or regulators up there yet.
At base camp it is sunny with some wind, but it looks very windy up higher.

May 8th, 2010:
Resting at base camp and watching the weather. Mingmar got a radio call from Kame (another Peak Promotion Sherpa). While descending from Everest camp 4 he saw a body tied off the fixed line just below our camp 4 on Lhotse. We were not sure, but more than likely it was one of the Russian climbers trying to climb Lhotse.
I also found out that while Mingmar was digging out a tent platform at Lhotse camp 4 he had a close call. Snow that he had dug out of the steep slope gave way while he was standing on it. Fortunately he had changed from using a shovel to his ice axe and was able to arrest his slide on the Lhotse Face. If he had still been using the shovel he would not have been able to stop a long fall down the face.

Friday, May 07, 2010
FIRST PEAK PROMOTION EVEREST 2010 SUMMIT SUCCESS! We just received confirmation that climber Domhnall O’Doughartaigh reached the summit just after 06:00am May 7, 2010 (Nepal Time) with His Guide Pemba Sherpa. With he is him friend Lucille de Beaudrap and her accompanying Sherpa climber. They are on their way down and Sherpa support is on their way up to the south col. Congratulations – Domhnall O’Doughartaigh and the other too!!! summit picture will update soon..
	May 05, 2010: Yesterday we cheered when we heard of the simultaneous summits and rope-fixing success by some strong and skilled Sherpa climbers from a consortium of teams.  It was what camp was waiting for:  once the ropes are fixed, we look for a weather window clear of heavy snow and winds.
Domnhall and Pemba

A climber near and dear to our hearts has decided that tonight is his night and will go for the summit from camp 4 this evening, hoping for a summit tomorrow morning.  Domnhall O’Doughartaigh (gee I hope I got that right …) has shared camp with our Everest ER team since the first week – this means not only sharing kitchen and infrastructure, but sharing all of our meals together.  You get to know a guy pretty well in those close quarters.  Domnhall is a strong climber (countless trips through the icefall and to higher camps, carrying his own gear with minimal support) and a giving soul who’s a great camp cat as well.  We’ve enjoyed lots of evening card and domino games and interesting discussion.  He’s also a critical care nurse who helps out in the clinic when we’re bursting at the seams, or just call for help.  He’s accompanied by Pemba, one of our fave Sherpa too.  We wish them strong safe climbing and warm toes and fingers.  And our fingers are crossed!

Experts tell us the weather window will close tomorrow for a few days of inhospitable weather.  So as we all watch and wait for the next window, we hope our friends eyeing the summit take advantage of extra time to heal their coughs and gather strength.  Another lesson in patience…

Source: Everest ER

Everest Base camp – April 22, 2010 Peak Promotion. Salt Lake City Group

We are now backing in Thamel, Kathmandu relaxing and slowly readjusting after an amazing few weeks in the Khumbu!
It all started quite late in the evening when we arrived at the KTM Airport and Mr. Wongchu with a big welcoming smile was waiting to greet us. We said our hellos and introduction, then he and his team went to work gathering us and our luggage though the maze of immigration, customs, and KTM chaos. Literally within minutes we were all comfortably in a beautiful new van on our way to the hotel. The next day we met with our guides and did a last gear check before our flight to Lukla. It was easy to see by the smile in their eyes that our Sherpa guides were experienced and eager to get us into the Khumbu! Next stop, after an exciting flight was the Airport in Lukla where the whole trekking adventure really starts. The mountains are green and tall, the people eagerly waiting to help with smiles, and a new found calm in the air. Our trek had commenced!

A trek with Peak Promotion is an incredible way to see this part of the world, and I would highly recommend it to anyone seeking out a great adventure. They are a professional guiding company with all the experience and professionalism one would expect form a well established guiding outfitter. But apart from just good services, they have incredible guides, a great knowledge of the area, and are exceptional at the planning and logistics that are involved in an otherwise chaotic country. Almost immediately from the get go, our group and the guides got along great and became a real team that continued up to the beautiful views of Everest Base camp and all the way back to Kathmandu. It will be a trip to remember and I look forward to coming back to Nepal and trekking with P.P. again!

Thanks again to Peak Promotion and out incredible guides.
Nima M.
Salt Lake City, UT,
U.S.A.

21 April 2010

Once again we hit the trail with clear blue skies .  We headed down hill to Chukkung today.  Will be nice to be at 15,609 feet for a few days.  We started out our morning with a small fording of the river.  Sounds like a glacial dam broke above, releasing flood waters.  The bridge that we had crossed less than a week ago was partially intact, but surrounded by rapids.  Once again, Ang Dawa and Ang Karma literally pulled us through.  We passed above Pheriche and remembered fondly the steamy hot shower we all enjoyed there.   From above Dingboche we had an amazing view of Island Peak.  Looks pretty small in comparison to nearby mountains, but still a little intimidating.  After lunch in Dingboche, began a gradual uphill to finish off our day in Chhukkung.  Marcie has added french fries to her list of things not to eat prior to afternoon uphill walks.   Jasminna is stiil trying to figure out a way to give water to the Sherpa  dogs along the trail.  After showers, ginger tea, and digestive crackers, we got to spend time talking with people who had just gotten back from Island Peak.  Sounds challenging, but we are feeling strong and ready.  We plan on practicing with our climbing gear tomorrow and getting pumped up.  Also, will be resting up for our big summit attempt in the wee hours  of the morning on April 24^th.

Stacee, Marcie, Lexi and Jasminna

23^rd April 24, 2010

Day Five: Tengboche to Dengboche

We started the day with Good Morning tea and cornflakes and eggs for breakfast at the Tengboche Guest House.  Don started out not feeling so well, but with fluids and pharmaceuticals, he lives to walk another day – and several more thereafter.

Tim walked off from Tengboche without his camera, not realizing it until we had descended down to the river.  He and Mingmar dashed back up the hill (Tim stopped dashing around rounding the bend) and retrieved the camera.  Tim, Mingmar, and Tendi then double-timed it to catch up with the group.  Tim said he must be famous on the trail now because every Sherpa he passed would laugh.

We were fortunate to participate in a Puja ceremony at the Pangboche monastery.  Lama Geshe gave us the following wishing prayer:

Give up all intention to harm others from your heart

And do your best to benefit them all

If each and everyone feels the universal responsibility to do so,

We will all enjoy the feast of peace.

The Lama gave each of us a blessing, tying a cream silk kata and an orange lisle thread around our necks for good luck on our trek.  He also gave each of us a card containing a story about Jomo Langma  (Everest) with his name and our name written on it in Tibetan.  It was a moving ceremony, and we all felt a lift in the step as we climbed out of Pangboche.

We had lunch in Shomare – potatoes, spinach and bread like an unsugared elephant ear.  The altitude is starting to sap our appetites but the starch was good to get us going.

From lunch, we still had about   l,500 feet to climb to Dengboche, not counting dropping down to the river again.  After climbing up from the river, we crossed a tree-less landscape of rock and low juniper.  Ama Dablam towers overhead, showing a different aspect from Tengboche.  Nuptse now obscures Everest.  Island Peak fills the valley above Dengboche.

We are settled in at the Hotel Family Dengboche, around 14,400 feet in elevation.  Tomorrow is another “rest” day, meaning we hike our tails off, but get to come back to the same beds.

Source: 23rd April, 2010- Tengboche to Dengboche

22^nd April 2010

Day 4 of our trek has brought us to Tengboche.  We left Namche Bazaar this morning around 8:00 am after another great breakfast.  The hotel we stayed at in Namche was wonderful.  Beautiful views, spacious rooms, hot showers, and flush toilets.  While we were sad to leave the conveniences, we were excited to proceed with the trek.

Today’s hike was sharply uphill at the beginning, followed by a fairly steep downhill to a river which runs through the valley.  We ate lunch at the low point of the hike right by the river.  Once again, the meal was great.  The quality of the meals has been one of the surprises of the trip for most of us.  We don’t know if that will continue throughout the trip, but it has been a pleasant surprise.

We started hiking again around 12:30.  The trail was quite steep all the way to Tengboche.  Unfortunately, about halfway up the trail, we got behind a caravan of about 10 yaks loaded down with bags and supplies.  In addition to slowing we down quite a bit, them kicked up a lot of dust.  We couldn’t get around them until just before we arrived at Tengboche.

Tengboche sits at an altitude of 12,600 feet.  It is a small village of mostly hotels for trekkers.  There is a Buddhist monastery at the top of the hill when you first arrive in town.  We were told that roughly 100 monks live at the monastery.   We were given a tour of the monastery by our faithful lead guide, Tendi.  We saw the main worship room which consists of one large statue of Buddha in the front center of the room.  There are 3 benches that the monks sit on in the middle of the floor.  The walls are painted with scenes from the life of Buddha.

The Nepalese staff assigned to our group has been great.  We have four porters who carry our bags.  These are young men who are quite small, but have amazing strength.  Both of them are carrying two bags which combined must weigh 80-100 pounds.  In addition to Tendi, there are four other Nepalese who walk the trails with us.  Their names are Rinji, Mingmar Dendi, Mingmar, and Jiwan. They rotate being the lead hiker and hanging toward the back to make sure no one falls behind.  So far, all of us are hiking strong and feeling pretty good.  No significant altitude problems or sicknesses to report.  Tomorrow, we head to Dingboche at roughly 14,800 feet where we will file our next report.

Read Full Story: 22nd April, 2010- Namche to Tengboche

21th April, 2010

Day four of the Trek started with clear skies and another great breakfast of cereal, eggs and toast. Today is a rest day and acclimatization day, but this also meant that we hiked to the Sherpa village of Khumjung and back to Namche Village. This allowed us to gain some altitude and then sleep lower before we push higher into the Khumbu to Tengboche tomorrow.

We started by hiking up to the Namche Museum which lies just above town.  This was an old military post and is now a museum.  This was a great start as we were able to get our first views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam. WOW. The museum was really interesting and we enjoyed Tendi’s talk. Tendi is our lead Sherpa, “Sirdar”.

We then hiked up to the Everest View Hotel which sits approximately at 13,000 feet and has SPECTACULAR VIEWS of all the previously mentioned mountains. This hotel has the claim of being the highest hotel in the world. We had a coke and enjoyed the views. Again WOW what a place.

The hike down to Khumjung and thru town was a special treat as we were the only folks doing this. We had lunch at Ama Dablam View Lodge. The name says it all, as the view of the mountain is spectacular. We were treated with watching the moon rise directly above Ama Dablam. This Sherpa village was a special treat as it allowed us to view the local High School and the kids playing. What a treat. One of the young ones was very talkative and his English was very good. He startled Alan with questions and it was magical and funny to watch.

The hike back to Namche had nice views as we came down the other side from where we walked up. We passed a small Monastery and back into town we strolled.

Read Full Story: 21th April, 2010- An acclimatization day

Today we made it to Everest Base Camp, elevation 17,335ft. It took about 2-3 hours from Gorek Shep over glacial moraine on quite rocky terrain, but worth every step. The Kumbu icefall was spectacular, spilling out from the pass between Lola peak and Nuptse peak right to the foot of base camp, where it merged with all the colorful tents of the many climbing expeditions.  We heard and saw multiple rock and ice falls which seemed to last minutes echoing off the cliff walls which surrounded us. When we arrived at the official Everest Base Camp entrance, we were met with hot lemon tea and cookies, which definitely hit the spot. Ang Dawa Sherpa lead us to the Everest ER, where we were given a friendly welcome from Dr. Luann Freer and Dr. Steve Halverson, both from Montana.  They showed us around the ER and then we all sat down in the Peak Promotion tent for a lunch which included fresh cucumbers and orange slices(yum)!  Right after lunch we saw a rescue helicopter land to fly someone who had been sick for a while to Kathmandu. It is amazing they are able to land a helicopter there, they didn’t even turn the engine off….just loaded her up and took off. We then said goodbye to everyone and started back to Lobuche.  Jasmina hiked up to Kallapatar today, and then we met up with her in Gorek Shep and from there all headed down together to Lobuche. I will admit it felt great to go downhill. Tomorrow we are heading to Chhukung where we plan to stay two nights and do some training before heading to Island Peak base camp.  Thanks again to the Everest ER doctors and Peak Promotion for making us feel right at home.

Marcie, Stacee, Lexi, Jasmina

Read Full Story: 20th April, 2010- From Everest Base Camp

19th April, 2010

What a wonderful day!  We had a bit of snow last night, leaving clear blue skies today….a perfect backdrop for gawking at Nuptse, Pumori, Everest, Lhola, AmaDablam and all the other Himalayan mountains I’m trying to remember the names of.  We’re peeking over at Everest Base Camp (“the EBC”) from our tea house at Gorakshep.  We gained elevation gradually from Lobuche then crossed a huge glacial moraine at the junction of three glaciers, stumbling over great views of Pumori and Nuptse all the way here.  We watched the moon rise over Lhola peak as we followed the Khumbu glacier.  After a light lunch in Gorakshep, Stacee, Marcie, and I walked “Bistare Bistare” (very slowly) up to Kalapathar, the “Black Rock” at the base of Pumori.  We peaked at 18,445’, mouths agape, looking out toward Everest and all the way down the Khumbu toward AmaDablam.  Tomorrow, we plan to visit Everest ER at the EBC and also a reputable bakery…???  I think there might even be a Starbucks up there, if we’re lucky.  Hope you are all well and remember: Bistare, Bistare!

-Lexi, Marcie, Stacee, & Jasmina

Read Full Story: 18th April, 2010- Lobuche